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Mexican · Albany · $
Charred, thinly sliced beef with a good sear and smoky char, served on fresh corn tortillas with onion and cilantro
Taqueria · Albany · $
Spit-roasted pork with pineapple on doubled corn tortillas — the clearest test of a taqueria's fundamentals and reportedly a strong suit here
Smaller, simpler corn tortilla plates — respectable but the burritos are clearly where Gordo shines